Pulau Kapas travel and tourist guide
Rocky cove at lovely Pulau Kapas
The tiny island of Pulau Kapas off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia is a quiet haven of brilliant white sandy coves and kaleidoscope coral. Measuring less than two kilometres in length, the island is a tranquil as one will find anywhere in Malaysia with just a smattering of beach huts, one large resort of note and a few dive operations. Turtles hatch just off the north coast whilst there is arguably the best close-to-beach snorkelling in the country.
Most of the tourist accommodation is based around the west of island facing the Malaysian mainland. Prices are seasonal but rooms do get booked up in the peak summer period between July and August. The different beaches of the island are separated with rocky outcrops, but the national park authorities have thoughtfully built concrete steps over these making getting around the coast a breeze.
Activities on Pulau Kapas
People flock to Pulau Kapas (Kapas Island) to chill out under swaying palm trees, to soak up the sun and just relax on a tiny tropical island paradise. There are no real manmade attractions of note, and the pace of life on the island is practically inert.
Water sports activities are the main attraction on Pulau Kapas, with scuba diving and snorkelling being the most popular. There are some excellent sites here, while windsurfing and fishing are also hugely popular. People also come here simply to relax on the beach perhaps with a good book.
Scuba diving
There are many good spots to dive in the surrounds with Kapas Island Resort offering excursions and tuition (see listing below).
Snorkelling
There is great snorkelling off all beaches of Pulau Kapas with the variety of marine life generally improving as one travels from the main west beach to the coves further north towards tiny Pulau Gemini. Many of the guesthouses organise trips to the best spots, but they are usually so close to the beach it is less hassle just swim there. Reef sharks are a common sight just yards from the shore. Masks, snorkels and fins are available for rent from most guesthouses at RM5 for the day.
Kayaking
It is possible to rent a kayak and paddle right around the island, visiting some of the hidden beaches on the east side as you go. But remember, the tranquil water facing the mainland gets much rougher when you turn the corner into the South China Sea, so insist upon a kayak with a spraydeck skirt which makes them virtually unsinkable. Rental costs around RM10 per hour from any beachside watersports vendor.
Quiet relaxing beach on Kapas Island
Windsurfing
Visitors can go windsurfing on Puala Kapas during the blustery monsoon season, although conditions will probably be too sedate during the peak season. Tuition is also available from some of the guesthouses. Equipment rentals costs from RM15 per hour.
Fishing
Deep-sea fishing enthusiasts will find plenty of options for getting out on the waves. Equipment rental is available from guesthouses and plenty of locals catch grouper off the main pier. But Kapas Island is famous for squid fishing between April and September and visitors can join a local fisherman boat and catch squid around two feet long. These can then be barbecued in the evening. Contact Kapas Island Resort for details.
Hotels and guesthouses on Pulau Kapas
Turtle Valley Resort: This Dutch-owned high-end resort is thoughtfully set out with well-equipped chalets overlooking the eastern beach. Turtles regularly hatch on the shingle surface and there’s a great restaurant. Tel: (013) 354 3650. Rooms from US$40.
Kapas Island Resort: This is the largest resort on the island plus the only place on the island with internet access including WiFi. There are a variety of chalets (US$25) as well as a cheap longhouse dorm (US$5) for budget travellers. It has a large swimming pool and loads of watersports but gets packed out with local package tours at weekends and holidays. Tel: (09) 631 6468.
Dahimah’s Guesthouse: Lovely little chalets near a lagoon in the southwest of the island. There is a decent restaurant attached and a lively atmosphere at night. Tel: (09) 845 2843. Rooms from US$10.
Captain’s Longhouse: An atmospheric place where everybody takes dorm beds in a huge longhouse. There’s a great restaurant attached with chilled beer and weekend barbecues. Tel: (019) 215 3558.
Zaki Beach Chalet: These A-frames are situated one bay north of the pier and there’s a bohemiam little restaurant/bar where travellers hang out late drinking beer. Tel: (019) 956 0513. Rooms from US$10.
Room safety and alcohol
Occasionally there are large parties from the mainland which arrive for the weekend and can be boisterous. Make sure to lock up your room and keep an eye on your possessions if such a rowdy group arrives. These are quite rare, however. Alcohol is hard to find on Kapas and is expensive where available, so seek out a Chinese supermarket in Marang before setting off if you fancy a wee tipple during your stay.
Pulau Kapas restaurants
There are no stand-alone restaurants on Pulau Kapas with all the guesthouses having some kind of eatery attached. Most restaurants do not serve alcohol, and those that do charge exorbitant rates. One restaurant which stands out is Qimi Chalets to the north of the island which has delicious seafood including squid in turmeric and butter king prawns and is a cut above most of the island’s modest fare. Kapas Island Resort also puts on a decent barbecue spread in the evenings.
Getting to Pulau Kapas
Regular ferries go to Pulau Kapas from the port town of Marang which is situated 17kms south of Kuala Terengganu. Any northbound bus travelling towards KT will drop you off in the town if you let the driver know in advance. Then it’s just a two minute walk down the hill to the west towards the jetty. Alternatively there are local buses from Kuala Terengganu to Marang or a taxi direct to the port will cost around RM30.
There are a variety of companies which transfer passengers to the island which all have booths at the jetty. Typical prices are RRM15 per person each way or RM25 return. Just let your guesthouse know when you plan to come back and they will contact the appropriate company. For onwards travel, it’s best to take a taxi to Kuala Terengganu bus station and where there are departures to all over the country.
